December is here and that means that it’s time of year when a home cook’s fancy to turn to baking and roasting up items to give as gifts. In the coming days, I’ll be posting a few new recipes to get your wheels turning, but until then, I thought it might be nice to feature some of the giftables I’ve posted in the past.

Jams

While there aren’t many jammable fruits left out there this time of year, there are still pears. And they are one of my favorites things to preserve. The archives speak for themselves. Pear Vanilla Jam. Pear Cinnamon Jam. Red Pear with Lavender. Pear Chutney with Dried Cherries and Ginger. Just know that this time of year, the pears have thicker skins than they do is early fall, so they may need to be peeled.

And if pears aren’t your bag, there’s always Apple-Cranberry Jam. It’s bright ruby color makes it feel festive and it is lovely for breakfast or paired with runny cheeses on an appetizer plate.

Snacks and Munchables

Roasted Chex Mix. It’s a blast straight out of my personal past and it so, so good. People go crazy for it. For snack that’s a little sweet and spicy, try these Rosemary Maple-Glazed Nuts.

If you need something to pair with a little jar of jam, bake up a batch of these easy crackers. They come together in minutes and are perfect to have in the pantry around the holidays to finish off a spread of starters.

Baked Goods

Cocoa Hazelnut Granola. It’s a must for the chocolate lover in your life. If you’ve someone on your list whole likes an easy baking project, this Cranberry Orange Scone Mix is just the thing. For best results, put a little piece of plastic wrap in between the dry ingredients and the orange sugar.

These mini Cranberry Bread Loaves are nice if you’re putting together an assortment of treats and want to add a quick bread. And no one ever says no to a batch of Whole Grain Pancake Mix. Pair it with a jar of jam or a small bottle of maple syrup for a holiday morning breakfast kit.

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It’s day three of Drink Week! Today’s topic is the no-cook fruit syrup. Because sometimes, it’s just too darn hot to turn on the stove for even a minute. This sour cherry version is ideal with a little spritz, so make sure to click over and enter the Sodastream giveaway. Make sure to check out the previous two Drink Week posts, Black Raspberry Syrup and Cherry Bounce and Other Boozy Infusions.

If you search this website, you will see that my obsession with sour cherries is well-documented. There are at least two different jam recipes here, and recently, I’ve been tempted to post a third, since lately I’ve been making a whole sour cherry preserve that would knock your socks off. But this isn’t about cherry preserves. This about a revelation I had recently. It’s the no-cook, whole fruit syrup.

In essence, you put a some fruit in a jar (in this case, two cups of pitted sour cherries). Pour half as much sugar in (one cup of organic cane sugar) and then smash the heck out of the fruit with a wooden spoon, tiny potato masher or the end of a rolling pin (I used a little muddler that looks like a tiny baseball bat). After you’ve taken out your aggressions, just park the jar in the fridge overnight and forget about it.

The next day, check on your jar of sugared and smashed fruit. In some cases, the sugar will be entirely dissolved, but not always. If not, give the jar a good shake (make sure you’ve got a tight-fitting lid on there or you’ll be covered in sticky juice) and put it back. After a day or so of chilling and shaking, you should be left with a jar full of fruit and syrup, ready to be used.

Once it’s gotten nice and juicy, you have two choices. You can either strain the fruit from the syrup, discard it and proceed to use the syrup as you’d like. Or you can do what I do, and add those tender bits of sour cherry to your glass. I like it with some sparkling water and, on occasion, two or three drops of bourbon (for a very mild, faux, fizzy Manhattan). You can also use it to make instant sangria. Just add a few spoonfuls of the sour cherries and their syrup to a glass of red wine, ice cubes and sparkling water. Stir and quaff.

This technique also works with plums, apricots and plums. Try it. I think you’ll be sold.

Oh, and if all this talk of sparkling water has you parched, don’t forget to enter the Sodastream giveaway!

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This year for Thanksgiving, Scott and I drove down to Virginia to celebrate the holiday with his mother and extended family. We took a variety of treats to Joan, including bread and butter pickles and blondies (sadly, we forgot the pound of grated locatelli she had requested). In return, she sent us home with a big box of books she was finished with, the crystal wine glasses she had gotten for her engagement many years ago and a mini-loaf pan that she wasn’t using.

The wine glasses are beautiful and the books have provided a great deal of pleasure in recent days. However, it was that mini-loaf pan that got my creative juices flowing. I started imagining holiday gift bags that included two or three different loaves of quick breads to accompany a jar of jam.

For my first round of quick bread baked into mini-loaves, I used a recipe for cranberry bread that I’ve made nearly 100 times in my lifetime. It comes from the back cover of a storybook called Cranberry Thanksgiving and I first begged my mom to help me make it when I was six years ago. She was quickly convinced of its virtues and it became a family tradition to make up several loaves of this bread each year and give them to our friends and neighbors for the holidays.

I’ve altered the recipe a little from the one printed on the book, mostly in an attempt to make it healthier. I use whole wheat pastry flour in place of all-purpose and have reduced the sugar a little (I’m okay with sweets in the morning, but I don’t want to feel like I’m eating straight cake). Typically, I will include toasted pecans in the batter, but left them out this time because my pecans had been in the fridge for some time (at least a year) and had that spongy, fridge taste. Nobody likes that.

The lack of pecans aside, I’m really happy with these little loaves. I took one to brunch with friends this morning and the four year old who was present delighted in unfurling it from its parchment and baker’s string wrappings. She loved that it was sized just for her and the rest of us just liked how good it tasted.

Cranberry Bread
makes one standard loaf or eight mini-loaves

1/4 cup butter
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 egg
3/4 cup pulpy orange juice
zest of one orange
2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
3 cups fresh cranberries, chopped
1 cup pecans, chopped and lightly toasted (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease your baking tin(s) and set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the the butter and brown sugar together. Once they look creamy, add the egg, orange zest and orange juice. Beat to combine and then set aside.

Put the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda, cinnamon and nutmeg into a medium bowl and whisk them to combine.

Add the dry ingredients to the wet batter and beat until they are just combined. Add the chopped cranberries and pecans (if you’re using them) and fold them into the batter.

Put the batter into your baking vessel of choice (if you’re using mini-loaves or muffin tins, make sure to portion out the batter evenly) and smooth out the top. Bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes (if making small loaves or muffins) or 55-60 minutes (for a regular loaf).

Test the bread’s doneness by poking a toothpick into the center. If it comes out clean, you’re good to go. If it’s damp with batter, keep it in a bit longer (test after another five minutes).

Let the bread cool for ten minutes before turning it out of the pan(s). Let it cool thoroughly and then wrap for gifting (parchment paper, colored plastic wrap or foil are all festive options).

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For the last eight years, I’ve lived in a two-bedroom apartment on the 20th floor of an apartment in the middle of Center City Philadelphia. I realize that some might see this as an enviable position, and really, I do recognize the many perks to my home (the block and a half commute to work is a particular joy).

Nonetheless, I itch for outdoor space. For a deck on which to drink coffee in the summer and to feel the gentle heft of early morning sun, while still in my pajamas. For the ability to use the outdoors as extra refrigerator space in the winter. And for a little patch of dirt in which to grow my own tomatoes, cucumbers and climbing pole beans.

Last summer, I chatted my way into a plot in a community garden (truly, I was at a happy hour and, over specialty cocktails, managed to mention to the the very right person how I yearned for growing space). It was about a mile and a half from my apartment and yet, it was heaven to have a bit of dirt to call my own. You see, I come from people who habitually plant edible things and so existing in a state of no backyard vegetable garden has been an unfamiliar and awkward position for me, even after all those years without.

Happily, I’ll be returning to my twin bed-sized plot again this year and I couldn’t more delighted (even the profusion of mosquitoes can’t keep me away). This year I’m going to keep it simple, just tomatoes, kale and a number of herbs (last year, those damned vine borers destroyed my promising zucchini and cucumber plants. I can’t deal with that kind of disappointment again, so I’m skipping those plants for ones I know can survive the space).

I realize that lots of you have started to plan your gardens (and your canning) and may have already placed your seed orders for the year. For those of you who haven’t, I’ve got a giveaway for you. I’ve have one set of Survival Seeds* from Hometown Seeds to send off to a lucky gardener. These are non-hybrid seeds, which means that you can save the seeds from your harvest and plant them again next season. They come packaged in a sealed mylar bag and are designed to keep for years (so even if you can’t use them this year, you can pop them into a cool, dark place and plant them next spring).

For a chance to win these seeds, leave a comment sharing a memory of a garden. I’ll select a random winner on Friday, March 19, 2010 at 11:59 p.m.

*For the record, I want to say that I do not preserve food or garden out of fear or a sense of impending doom. I know that there are lots of people out there who are motivated to acquire these skills because they believe some sort of global cataclysmic is imminent. Not me. I believe in hope and the ability of love to to triumph over fear and hate. I grown food because I appreciate the sense of renewal that it offers. And I preserve because it brings me joy (sun-ripened tomatoes in January!).

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I’m a few days behind in wishing you all a very happy holiday season (I’ve spent very little time in front a computer while out here in Portland. It’s been a much needed break), but wanted to send my message of love, appreciation and joyful times out, no matter the belatedness. I hope that your holiday (whether you celebrate Hanukkah, solstice, Christmas or Kwanzaa) was chock full of family, fun and, yes, food in jars.

(Those shelves you see up there? That’s my mom’s assortment of nuts and grains. It certainly gives you an idea of where I got the jar bug.)

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Don’t forget to sign up for one of my cranberry classes – jelly on 11/15 and chutney on 11/21

Last week I picked up my final CSA share. The box included an adorable little sugar pumpkin. Normally, I would have kept it in the dining room for a week or two, in order to enjoy the autumnal look it would lend my grandmother’s table. However, this one came with a soft spot, so it had to be used right away, lest it rot away entirely (Jonathan at Wasted Food would be so proud). So Sunday morning, I cut out the bad spot, split it in half and put it cut sides down on a cookie sheet, to gently roast until soft at 350 degrees. When it was fork-tender, I turned the oven off and left it to cool in the oven until I was ready to deal with it.

Not having a plan for it, when it was soft and cool enough to handle, I simply scraped the flesh away from the skin and packed it into the jar you see above. It’s still in the fridge, and I’m hoping to puree it until smooth tomorrow night (it’s too late tonight to embark on a fresh kitchen project) and use some of it to make a batch of these whole wheat pumpkin muffins (if you follow that link, my apologies for the awful photo. I can’t believe I ever thought it was a good idea to post that horror). The rest is going to go into some variance on this seriously delicious potato/pumpkin/gruyere casserole (I promise you that if you try it, you will forever make a place for it on your Thanksgiving table).

However, all that doesn’t tell you a whole lot of about preserving pumpkin past this season (although, those muffins can be frozen to delicious results). What I can tell you is that you have a few options when it comes to this gorgeous, vitamin-rich vegetable. Most easily, as long as you have good storage space, you can simply keep these pumpkins whole. Ask your farmers and market vendors which they recommend most for long-term storage.

If you want to have roasted pumpkin/squash at your finger tips, freezing is your only safe option. The density of mashed/pureed pumpkin is such that even pressure canning cannot guarantee your safety. However, it’s very easy to freeze it. Roast your pumpkins just like I did above and then measure it out into zip top bags, plastic storage containers or jars (if you freeze in glass, make sure to leave plenty of room for expansion). If you have a favorite recipe that calls for pumpkin/squash puree, consider freezing in that exact proportion, to make for easy cooking/baking.

However, you are able to pressure can pumpkin chunks packed in water. Here’s what you do (these instructions were taken directly from So Easy to Preserve, the canning bible out of the University of Georgia cooperative extension). Peel the pumpkin and cut the flesh into 1-inch cubes. Add to a pot of boiling water and cook for two minutes. Pack the hot cubes into hot jars and add cooking liquid, leaving 1-inch of head space. Remove the air bubbles, wipe rims and apply lids. Process in a pressure canner at 11 pounds of pressure, 55 minutes for pints and 90 minutes for quarts.

When you’re ready to use this pumpkin in a recipe, you’ll find that a quick drain and a few smashes with a fork (or a run through a food processor if you’re a stickler for a lump-free texture) will provide you just what you need.

Lastly, if none of those options particularly float your boat, consider scoping out the Pumpkin Marmalade that the lovely Tigress in a Jam made recently. It’s currently stuck in my head and I’m thinking I may not be able to shake it loose until I make my own batch.

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Before tomato season comes to a close, I want to talk about my favorite way to preserve tomatoes. I typically only can them one way – (mostly) whole and peeled, in their own juices. I do them this way because I like the versatility they retain when put up in this manner. Later down the line, I can choose as to whether I want to puree them down, make a chunky sauce or just crush them with my hands and use them to top homemade pizza (Mmmm).

One thing to note is that my tomatoes aren’t perfectly whole. I do crush them a bit while cramming them into the jars, in order to generate enough liquid to totally cover the ‘maters. I find that I’m able to get three romas into a pint jar and six into a quart. On occasion, I’ll cut a tomato in to thirds or halves in order to finish off a jar and still have the proper amount of headspace.

Take your tomatoes and core them. This isn’t an absolutely necessary step, but I hate dealing with the cores when it comes time to use the tomatoes on the other end.

A cored tomato. Seriously easy.

Make two shallow cuts on the bottom of the tomato, to ease the peeling.

Drop cored and scored tomatoes into a pot of boiling water (don’t put too many in at once, or you’ll drop the water temperature drastically and it will take forever to return to a boil). Blanch tomatoes for 1-2 minutes, until the skins start to blister or loosen.

Put your blanched tomatoes into a boil of cold water, to halt cooking and to make them handle-able.

Peel tomatoes. The skins should slip off easily after the blanching and the cold water dip.

I put the tomatoes into the jars as I peel. Two standard sized romas typical fit at the bottom of the jar.

You may need to give them a little help. I use my hand when filling wide mouth jars, but when dealing with regular mouth openings, I employ the handle of a wooden spoon.

Look! A jar that’s filled with tomatoes! All the liquid you see here came from the tomatoes, as I gently smashed them to fit the jar.

Don’t forget to acidify. It’s one tablespoon of lemon juice for pints and two for quarts. I pour it on top of my filled jars, and then use a chopstick to remove the air bubbles from the jar and work the lemon juice down into its contents. You should have approximately 1/2 inch of headspace remaining after you add the lemon juice and de-bubble the jar.

After that, I wipe the rims, apply my lids (carefully simmered for 10 minutes at around 180 degrees), screw on the rings and lower the jars into the heated boiling water canner (remembering to use a rack so that the jars aren’t resting on the bottom of the pot).

Quarts of whole peeled tomatoes get processed in a boiling water canner for 45 85 minutes. Pints get processed for 40 minutes the same amount of time. Tomatoes that are packed in water are processed for 40/45 minutes.

Because my life is busy, I rarely do my tomatoes in one great, big canning day. Instead, I stretch the process out over several post-work weeknights. I’ll do four quarts at a time, because that’s how much my stock pot can hold during processing, and it keeps me from feeling overwhelmed. I find that a 25 pound box of tomatoes will make approximately 12-14 quarts of tomatoes, and so I do four jars a night for three nights in a row. It keeps me sane and keeps my pantry filled with wonderful, local tomatoes all winter long.

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With just a few more days left in July, we’re now about halfway through the height of the summer preserving season. So far this year I’ve made jam from strawberries, plums, peaches, apricots, rhubarb and done some mixed fruit compotes. I’ve pickled asparagus, string beans, cucumbers, jalapeno peppers, carrots and okra. I’ve canned peaches with vanilla bean and star anise, brewed some homemade syrups, made chutney and experimented with tomato jam. Over the weekend, I led a canning workshop in which we processed 58 quarts of whole tomatoes (I came home with several) and I finally pulled out the pressure canner and put up seven quarts of homemade stock.

I’ve learned a lot through all that canning. Here are some of the most useful things I’ve gleaned recently.

• A melon baller does a great job of extracting the pits from stone fruit (peaches, nectarines and plums).
• Sour cherries make the best jam ever and should be purchased whenever you find them at reasonable prices.
• Always cook jam in a larger pot than you think you need. It’s easier to scrub out a pot than it is to scour burnt sugar and fruit off your stove.
• Make sure to keep a couple of wooden spoons that are just used for jam, there’s nothing worse than stirring your strawberry jam with a spoon that smells like garlic or onions.
• Although I often preach that you don’t need to buy any special tools in order to can, having a jar lifter and wide-mouth funnel handy makes everything (at least in the world of home canning) easier.
• Measure everything out before you start.
• When it comes to canning peaches and whole tomatoes, pack ‘em tight to avoid float.
• A mortar and pestle is great for breaking down berries for jam (just make sure it doesn’t smell like garlic).
• Taste what you’re making. Adjust your seasonings before committing food to jar.
• When using a pressure canner, make sure to put a bit of white vinegar in the water, otherwise you get ugly water marks on all your jars.
• Don’t be afraid to experience with new herbs and spices.
• Just about everything can be pickled.
• Making jam from the fruit you’ve picked with your own two hands is hugely satisfying (admittedly, I knew this one before, but I continually reaffirm it).
• It’s okay if you aren’t perfect as long as you follow good safety precautions (a good lesson for life in general).
• If the jam doesn’t set, call it sauce. No one will know or care.
• Pickles just keep on getting better.

Okay kids, now it’s your turn. I want to hear about what you’ve made so far, the mishaps and the things you’ve learned. What will you make again next year and what’s going into the blooper pile? How do you feel? What still scares you? Has canning changed how you approach the summer?

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When my family moved to Oregon from Southern California in 1988, we were quick to adopt elements of the Pacific Northwest culture. We stopped carrying umbrellas when it rained, instead preferring to either dodge raindrops bareheaded or wear a hooded jacket when the rain was torrential. We became even more committed recyclers and created an elaborate sorting station in the basement or garage to house our plastics and papers, until we could take them an appropriate drop-off point. And we became devoted consumers of u-pick fruit.

Several times each summer, we’d make the trek out to Sauvie Island to pick strawberries, blueberries, peaches and apples (we’d pick up the windfall heritage apples from the Bybee-Howell House orchard. You’re not allowed to pick the fruit from the trees there, but the newly fallen apples are still quite edible and make excellent applesauce). My mom would turn into a fruit processing machine upon our return home, making batches of jam and apple butter, and freezing bags of slice peaches and applesauce (in mid-winter, spicy homemade applesauce is the best after dinner treat).

The first couple of years after I moved to Philadelphia, I didn’t look for places in the area to pick fruit, and instead planned a vacation out to Portland each summer, timing it to coincide with blueberry season. Eventually, I couldn’t keep up the mid-July trip home and so found myself searching for other places to pick. Over the last few years, I’ve picked fruit at several area farms.

My very favorite is Mood’s Farm Market in Mullica Hill, NJ. Their prices are reasonable, they grow a variety of fruit (sweet and sour cherries, blackberries, blueberries, concord grapes, peaches and more) and they have a farm market where they sell the most delicious apple cider doughnuts. Unfortunately, they don’t grow strawberries, which is what I want to pick this weekend, so yesterday I found myself searching for other area farms that offer u-pick strawberries. I made a bunch of phone calls and the results of my research, along with u-pick ettiquette and more resources are after the jump. Unfortunately, the farms are only going to be helpful for those of you in the PA/NJ/NY area, but the tips are still good.

First off, the u-pick tips. Any time you’re going to a new farm, it’s best to call ahead and ask a few questions. You want to know how much the fruit will cost, as prices can range dramatically from farm to farm on the same crop. You should also ask whether they provide containers into which to pick, or if you should bring your own. The blueberry farm I grew up going to always provided the containers and didn’t charge an extra fee for them. However, at Mood’s Farm, you’re responsible for your containers (they do have quart boxes that you can buy, but use too many and you’ll find that you spent an extra $5 on packaging).

If you aren’t picking at an organic farm, you should also ask the farmers what kind of pesticides they use. Some places only spray at the beginning of the season, before the plants have budded out. That means that the actual fruit has never come into contact with the chemicals (that doesn’t mean that the fruit will be chemical-free, though). This is a particularly important question to ask if you’re in the habit of nibbling while picking. You don’t want to chow down if the fruit might have a pesticide residue on it.

Speaking of eating the fruit while picking, I’m here to tell you that it’s okay to taste while you’re out in the field. If the farm grows several varieties of the same fruit, it’s actually a good idea to taste each one before you get down to the serious business of picking, so that you can determine which variety you like the best. Farmers know and expect that you will sample the wares as you go and factor that into the price they charge. This doesn’t mean that it’s acceptable to pick a container of fruit and then settle down with a picnic lunch that includes said fruit before you’ve paid. It does mean that you can taste a few strawberries while you pick, and savor their sweet, sun-warmed flavor. You certainly don’t have to be like my cousin Harlan, who refused to taste even a single blueberry when he picked, convinced that it was tantamount to stealing.

This weekend, I’m planning on heading out to the farm run by A.L. Gaventa and Son in Logan Township, NJ. I picked it because it’s open on Saturday, is approximately half an hour from Philly and doesn’t seem to be too agro-tainment-y (that is, a farm that combines the work of agriculture with the business of entertainment. These farms are great if you want to make a morning of it with the family, but not so good if you just want to pick in peace). I don’t know how much their berries cost per pound, but I’m imaging it will be somewhere around $1.50 to $2. For those of you looking for more options, here are some of the other places I called:

Springdale Farms in Cherry Hill, NJ – They’re the closest u-pick strawberry farm to Philadelphia, but their berries are $2.25 a pound and I got a serious agro-tainment vibe from them when I called. However, for those folks in Philly or South Jersey who don’t want to go far for their picking, this would be a good choice.

Russo’s Orchard Lane Farms in Allentown, NJ – This sounds like a wonderful choice for u-pick strawberries, but it’s near Trenton, making it too far from Philly to work for me. It would make a great spot for New Yorkers looking to get out of the city for the day, though. Their berries are only $1.35 a pound and the woman I talked to on the phone was helpful and sweet.

Rowand Farms in Glassboro, NJ – Half an hour from Philly, Rowand Farms would be a good option for folks coming from Philly. They’re not open on Saturdays, Sunday is their weekend day of choice, which is particularly nice since so many farms operate in reverse. Their strawberries are $1.50 a pound, which is a fair price.

For more farm options, the New Jersey Department of Agriculture has a helpful website that allows you to sort by roadside market (good for those of you who want farm fresh produce without having to work for it) or u-pick farm. The website allows you to browse by county, making it easy to find the closest farm.

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Last year, my approach to food preservation was totally haphazard. I made blueberry and blackberry jam, because those are the things I like to eat or give as gifts. I froze several pints of grape tomatoes on cookie sheets, because they were threatening to become over-ripe before I had a chance to eat them. I intended to do more with peaches, nectarines and the spinach from a local farmer, but each time, I turned my head for (what seemed like only) a moment and missed the season.

This year I hope to plan better, to can tomatoes for the winter and have slices of nectarines tucked away in the freezer for February smoothies. I’m preparing now, gathering jars (oh jars!) and lids, studying the charts that indicate seasonal ripeness from my favorite U-Pick and making arrangements to teach a few canning classes as Foster’s (because what better motivation is there for preparedness than the commitment to stand in front of strangers and talk?).

I’m looking forward to the coming weeks, when the asparagus begins to pop through the surface of the soil and offers its tender tips for steaming (and pickling). I’m dreaming of a small stash of green garlic pesto tucked away for a dark chilly night and of offering friends and family jars of sour cherry preserves for the holidays.

For now I’ll wait, make a batch of marmalade and imagine.

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