The apartment that Scott and I live in once belonged to my grandparents. My grandfather bought it in 1966 and my grandmother Tutu lived here until she died in 2002. I moved in soon after her death and I spent the first two years here slowly going through boxes and drawers, letting go of her things and making room for mine.
My grandfather Phil never actually got to live here. He died of a heart attack just months before they were scheduled to move in. Though I never had the opportunity to meet him, I know that he was one of the kindest and most generous men of his generation. He took care of everyone around him, and in a essential way, has provided for me as well.
One of the boxes I found as I sifted and sorted contained every condolence card Tutu received after Phil died. Some were heartfelt letters, while others were simply a few words dashed on now-vintage greeting cards.
And one was this simple note from Laurie Colwin.
During my childhood, I loved hearing stories of about when my mom was young. She’d tell me about life in the suburbs of Philadelphia, of walking to school without parents, playing outside with friends every afternoon and long, snowy winter nights (living in Southern California, snow was particularly exotic). There were lots of characters in these stories, including neighbors, classmates and the mean kids who went to the Catholic school around the corner.
One such story-time bit player was Laurie. She was a family friend, who briefly dated my uncle in high school and grew up to be a writer. When I found the note, I knew of the connection. But in the years since those bedtime stories, I had also discovered and devoured Laurie Colwin’s food writing. Her words had made her important to me and so the note became instantly valuable.
I’ve lived a life that’s been fairly free of mentors. I’ve always longed to have someone swoop down and offer me guidance and encouragement when it felt that the road had turned impossibly rocky. For whatever reason, no mentor has appeared. So I made one up. I tucked Laurie’s note into my calendar as touchstone and pretended that she was still alive and cared about my career.
I re-read her books regularly in an attempt to glean just what it is that made her food writing so good. When I was working on my cookbook, I often asked myself what Laurie might have thought of this chapter intro or that recipe headnote. And when I write something I’m pleased with, I imagine that she might have enjoyed reading it too.
I realize that I may have just confessed something that will make me sound slightly off my rocker, but honestly, having my imaginary Laurie mentor has helped me through many a tough spot.
When the topic of gingerbread came up last night, it seemed only natural to turn to one of Laurie’s recipes (she has one in each volume of essays and each is a little different). I used the one in Home Cooking
I used half blackstrap molasses and half Lyle’s Golden Syrup (her preferred sweetener in the More Home Cooking
The finished cake has a smooth, crackly crust and is all tender and spice inside. The pears add small pockets of juicy flavor and play so nicely with fire of the ginger. It’s the perfect thing to eat with a mug of tea on a cozy winter afternoon and I think Laurie would have loved it.
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
- 1/2 cup light brown sugar
- 1/4 cup black strap molasses
- 1/4 cup cane syrup or honey
- 2 eggs
- 1/2 cup buttermilk (or some plain yogurt thinned out with milk)
- 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
- 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- 3/4 cup whole wheat flour
- 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
- 1 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1 cup peeled and finely chopped pear
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
- Butter an 11 x 7 cake pan and set aside.
- Cream butter and brown sugar together. Once they well integrated, add molasses, cane syrup, eggs, buttermilk, vanilla extract and grated ginger. Mix to combine.
- In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, cloves and allspice.
- Add dry ingredients to wet and mix to combine. Once they are well integrated, fold in the chopped pears.
- Scrape batter into the buttered baking dish and bake for 25-35 minutes. It is done when the edges pull away from the corners of the pan and a tester comes out mostly clean.
- Let cool just until it is warm enough to handle and cut yourself a slice. Gingerbread is good just about any way you slice it, but is SO good when eaten warm.
Notes
Recipe adapted from Laurie Colwin’s "Home Cooking"
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Books have long been my mentors, showing me undiscovered bits of myself that have been some of the real “aha” moments in my life. I’ve long loved Laurie Colwin, the unapologetic hominess, her unabashed quirks, her sort of elder sister bossiness when it comes to fried chicken, and have counted her (books) as mentors also. What would Laurie cook when she’s home by herself?
I just got home from a Thanksgiving trip during which I slept in the bed in the house in which my grandmother was born. I brought box of pecans back with me that my aunt gave me from the trees in the yard. I guess my roots are pecan tree roots
As we wait for our wood cookstove to be delivered, I sit here daydreaming of using it to make exactly the sort of recipes you share here. I’m so glad to have found this blog…I love recipes that have a story to them.
[...] first was Marisa’s post on Laurie Colwin and gingerbread. Not only did her post remind me of (and warm me with) such [...]
Dear Heart (she would have said to you),
Thank you for the lovely tribute to Laurie. She’d have swept you up in a second, sat you down while she prepared dinner and begun her interrogation: “Say everything!”
You should give serious thought to a food book of your own, you know.
Juri
[...] Also, these Bartlett Pears in Lady Grey Tea Syrup from Snowflake Kitchen sounds amazing to me (have not tried it yet). As does Marisa at Food In Jars’ Pear Gingerbread. [...]
What a lovely post and tribute to Laurie Colwin. I’ve never read her books but she is mentioned reverently several times in Sarah Ban Breathnach’s book “Simple Abundance” and now after reading your post, I’m going to put Laurie’s book on my reading list for 2012.
Gingerbread is one of those wonderful comfort foods from my childhood. In my family it came from a box and filled the house with wonderful aroma so that I couldn’t wait to finish supper and eat a warm square of it topped with real whipped cream.
Another Laurie Colwin fan here–and I find it touching how many others here like her, too.
A little edgier but along the same lines is Jam Today by Tod Davies.
Ground allspice has to be one of my all time favourites. It really is the epitome of this time of year. It’s wonderful that it compliments both sweet and savoury. My latest Mango and Cranberry Chutney features it really heavily. Its a sweet hot Christmas spiced affair for serving with cheese at Christmas supper time. You might like to give it a try, Marisa.
[...] days making myself spiced chai sodas with sparkling water. I’ve served one jar with slices of this gingerbread (good on its own, it’s a marvel when drizzled with this syrup and topped with a couple slices [...]
I’m making this bread in individual mini loaf pans for a Christmas party. I can’t wait to taste them (they’re in the oven right now!). I also made a Concord grape and ginger jelly and (lo and behold) your apple & cranberry jam (with rosemary and honey added)! I just now realized that 2 two of my favorite homemade gifts were bookmarked from your site! I look forward to finding more treasures on your website! Thank you! -Shelly
I tired it with canned peaches instead of overripe pears – super yummy.
What a beautiful post to read on a quiet, summery (it is summer here in Australia) evening. I like the idea of having an imaginary mentor as i too have found myself needing encouragement and support for what i do and not finding it anywhere, made it difficult to persevere.
Oh! What a sweet post, and what a nice little connection to Colwin. I love her books; I loved reading her in Gourmet magazine, way back in the day.
Thank you!
Hi Marisa, I just found you and via the post on Laurie. I am a huge fan of hers- I try to spread the word in the Uk too. Her book Home Cooking is being published for the first time in the UK later this month. She is a friend to me and it seems she has been the best mentor to you. I am off to look around your blog and excited to see you have a book! Jo xx
I’m so happy to hear that Home Cooking is going to be published in the UK. I can only imagine that Laurie would have been delighted by that turn of events.
I so miss Laurie Colwin. I loved Home Cooking and my favorite novel of hers is Shine On Bright And Dangerous Object. I still remember when I learned of her death. I was at a book festival in downtown Denver and I picked up a new book of hers, do not now remember the title. I read on the dust jacket that this was her last book. That she had died. My stomach dropped, I felt like I had lost a good friend. Still miss her and her lovely writing.