This time of year, a canner’s fancy turns to pumpkins. Tis the season for all things round, orange and squashy, after all. However, as you start searching for recipes for home canned pumpkin butter from reputable sources, you’re going to find yourself disappointed. You see, both the USDA and the National Center for Home Food Preservation are going to tell you the same thing. Don’t do it.
I’m sure there are more than a few of you out there saying to yourself, “but I’ve been making and water bath canning pumpkin butter for years!” And it’s true, many years ago, there were USDA-approved recipes for pumpkin butter. Unfortunately, the rules of canning are not a static canon and so, in 1989 the USDA changed their recommendations and the NCHFP followed suit. No home canning for pumpkin butter, not even in a pressure canner.
The reasons why homemade pumpkin butter isn’t recommended are several. When cooked down into a butter, pumpkin flesh becomes quite dense, making it difficult for the heat produced in a canner to penetrate fully through the contents of the jar. This means that even in a pressure canner, the interior of the jar may not reach the 240 degrees needed to kill those pesky botulism spores.
Additionally, pumpkin and all other winter squash are a low-acid vegetables, meaning that without careful treatment, they could potentially be a friendly environment in which botulism spores might grow into their toxic adult state. In tests, it’s been found that the pH of pumpkin has a fairly wide range, meaning that it’s not possible to offer a basic acidification ratio as there is for other borderline and low acid foods.
The good news is that pumpkin butter can be frozen and also keeps quite well in the fridge, so it doesn’t have to be entirely off the menu. I’ve also been pondering whether one could make a an apple-pumpkin butter that would be high enough in acid to be safe for canning, but would contain enough pumpkin to be sufficiently autumnal. I may do a bit of playing around, to see if I can get somewhere close to the flavor I’d like to eat.
If you’re curious to read more about the safety hazards of canning pumpkin butter and other squash purees, click here to download the PDF that was the primary source for this post.
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This post came at a good time. I was wondering if I could can my pumpkin into butter…now it seems that this isn’t an option. But a few questions: Is the texture of a pumpkin butter alright after freezing? and do you know how long it would last once defrosted? Thanks!
Josee, in my experience, once defrosted, the texture of the pumpkin butter is just the same as it was when fresh.
I’ve been making pumpkin butter for several years now without any problems. I water bath process the jars for 30 mins but then I do store them in the frig just to be safe for the same reasons you listed. I also label the jars with “keep refrigerated at all times” & remind everyone i give them to to do so. Although in reality once I give someone a jar it doesnt stay unopened for long anyway then it goes in the frig with all the other open jars of jam. I have always wondered though what the difference is with the thickness of pumpkin butter compared to all the other kinds of fruit butter? I mean isnt that the point of fruit butter to begin with, that its very thick? Also I wonder does the USDA recommendation apply to all forms of pumpkin because it doesn’t really specify. I can see how if you use fresh pumpkin the acid levels can vary but what about canned? I always use canned pumpkin just for convenience & consistency … the canned pumpkin has already been heat treated to be shelf stable to begin with so why is it “unsafe” to heat it again & then can it (again). Oh well, I guess as long as I have enough frig space I’ll keep making it like I have been.
Heather, I really think that the difference between pumpkin butter and all other fruit butters is the fact that the flesh is low in acid, while all other fruits from which you make butters are high acid. Additionally, I have found that there remains a viscosity in apple/pear/peach butter that doesn’t exist with pumpkin butters.
Canned pumpkin isn’t acidified, so its acid level probably varies just like fresh. The reason commercially canned pumpkin is safe is that it is heat treated to extremely high temperatures during processing. It’s far higher than anything you can achieve in a home kitchen. But, as soon as you open the can, the virtues of that heat treatment are gone, and it’s just like any other pumpkin.
That’s a bummer! It’s so good!!
Any ideas how professional companies make their pumpkin butter shelf-stable? I always assumed they pressure canned it.
They have canners that can achieve higher temperatures than we can at home.
At our farm, we use an FDA-approved process that uses acidification rather than pressure canning to assure that botulism does not occur. The spores cannot survive in pH 4.6 or lower. We acidify we lemon juice concentrate.
I find this information very interesting. I know of a business in Georgia, a apple Orchard,Mercier that gets a huge business crowd year around and has several canned products, one being Pumpkin Butter. I have bought this myself and it was wonderful. Mercier of Blue Ridge, Georgia is on the website and not only has constant walk in business but does mail out. They must have found a way to safely can their Pumpkin Butter. http://www.mercierorchard.com
They must have their pumpkin butter processed by a commercial canner. If they don’t, I’d be wary of it.
Simply check with them if they have an FDA-registered process for their pumpkin butter. I was certified to process low-acid/acidified foods here at Kauffman’s Fruit Farm. It’s not rocket science, but it does require keen observance of FDA laws regarding the processing of these types of food. The methods are no secret. Probably the only thing in your kitchen that you don’t have to produce safe pumpkin butter is a pH meter. I’m assuming the only reason the FDA doesn’t recommend home kitchens making this stuff is that they can’t force you to go to a class to learn about safe processing since you aren’t selling the stuff.
Yes, I’m assuming they acidify it.
I hope there is a follow-up post with a pumpkin butter (or apple pumpkin butter!!) recipe! I would love to try this.
I’m working on it!
I agree, I would love a followup post with the apple-pumpkin butter recipe!
I bet it will be very autumnal, since apples are an autumn fruit as well!
Is pickled pumpkin still ok to do? My husband is looking forward to pickled pumpkin but as a new canner I’m now nervous about the botulism.
As long as you’re following a tested recipe from a reputable source, it should be fine.
This is the time of year when my husband begs for Paula Deen’s Apple Butter Pumpkin Pie … would love to try pumpkin apple butter, see if it would fit the bill in her recipe.
I saw that recipe as I was looking to see if anyone else had made an apple-pumpkin butter. Looks quite tasty!
I have the same idea about the apple-pumpkin butter. Afterall, apples are a fall fruit, perhaps a half and half ratio may be enough to kill thos botulisum spores… and with the added acid of fresh squeezed orange juice, i predict the finished product may be quite tastey!
I have been pouring over Pumpkin info all day and I am still confused. Most of the recipes I have seen get cooked for hours with a fairly high sugar content which raises the boiling temperature. I find it hard to believe that anything survives 3-4 hours in a crockpot.
If botulism does survive 3-4 hours in the crock pot, what would happen if I pressure cooked the pumpkin before I made pumpkin butter? Starting with raw pumpkin and then pressure cooking at 15 pounds for 15 minutes should cook it through and kill everything at the same time?
The only way that that would work was if you pressure cooked the pumpkin and then were able to keep it in a sterile environment. If you cook it in a pressure cooker and then take it out and expose it to the air, it can be contaminated all over again. Additionally, length of time plays no role in killing botulism spores. They are only killed at 240 degrees or higher. You can’t achieve that in a slow cooker, even with additional sugar.
Yes, I agree with you. I am going to move on to pumpkin pickles instead!
Whoa, bummer. Well, I guess I’ll just have to make fresh pumpkin pie instead! I had a great time at the canning class in PDX last week!
Thanks Anna, glad you could come!
I have a bunch of sugar pie pumpkins sitting on my counter right now, just waiting to be made into butter. Do you know how long they last in the fridge? Until Thanksgiving? (Hope!) Putting anything new in my freezer requires tetris-like manipulation at this point in the season.
Well, if you process them in order to get a seal (helps in refrigerated preservation) and use plenty of sugar, they’ll last at least a month (if not longer) in the fridge.
Pumpkin can be pressure canned if it is in one inch cubes. ( http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/how/can_04/pumpkin_winter_squash.html ) I add some pumpkin spice when I can them and then drain and dump in the blender with some sugar when I want pumpkin butter, or just dump in the blender when I want puree.
There is a Greek recipe for pickled pumpkin that I’ve been meaning to try for years. I’ve finally grown enough pumpkins to make a serious batch. Obviously we’re dealing with vinegar here, but I was wondering if anyone’s made pickled pumpkin before? What’s the texture? What do you use it for? Antipasti? Pies? As a side dish?
Well, drat. I’ve got to say I’ve been wanting to make and can pumpkin butter, but you’ve convinced me not to do it. Our freezer is full to overflowing, but I’ll see what I can do. Thanks for the great information, as always!
Many websites (this one included) cite the “why not home canning” language about density, acidity, water activity and whatever else. But no one explains the commercial canner magic that makes their commercially canned pumpkin butter safe. We follow this rule simply because it is a rule?
After this post the other day, something was tickling at the back of my brain because I actually pressure canned cubed pumpkin last year and I was pretty sure it was a reliable cookbook recipe. I did a little digging and, sure enough, the Ball Complete Book of Home Canning (the thick one…not the Blue Book) has a recipe for cubed pumpkin or butternut in water. Apparently, cubing it produces an even enough density that they felt comfortable publishing the recipe.
Incidentally, I haven’t cracked them open yet. They seem to have held-up well but have discolored a bit to a dark brown instead of bright orange.
In addition, last year was my “maiden voyage” (if you will) for canning and I did make canned pumpkin butter from a recipe I found on the Internet (I know, I know…reliable sources and all). I had seen the “don’t can pumpkin puree” warning from the Feds but I just assumed it didn’t apply to butter, which has a ridiculously high sugar content and is cooked a very long time. Sugar is also a great preservative (many buggies can’t survive in a high sugar environment).
So what to do with the sugar pumpkins sitting on my counter and all those family and friends begging for a jar of butter this year?? Freezing is out and constant refrigeration is not an option since these will likely be Christmas gifts, sitting under a tree or in the car for a bit.
I think I’m going to chance it, personally, and take a few extra precautions using some sound food science to guide me. My thoughts:
1) As I mentioned, sugar is a good preservative and butters have such a high concentration, that should help. Butters are cooked for hours, probably covering all your bases *except* botulism.
2) I think I’ll pressure can it this year just to be extra safe and I won’t use anything bigger than an 8oz jar. I’ll also make sure there’s plenty of room between the jars for better heat absorption.
3) I think I’ll try adding a few teaspoons of acid (lemon juice) at the end of cooking. It may change the flavor a bit, but a little extra insurance is probably a good thing.
4) As a triple safeguard, I’ll be extra careful about boiling the jars and equipment and keeping it out of the air as much as possible until the jars are closed.
Mind you, I’m no professional. These are my personal feelings on the matter, but I feel comfortable with the extra precautions and the food science behind them. You should always use your own good judgment.
Incidentally, Marisa, if you happen to do that recipe with part apples, I’d love to see it too! I just may see if I can get my hands on some PH test strips and see how bad the taste is if I add enough lemon juice to get to an acceptable level. I’m just curious…
Lisa and Justin, I am sure you know more than the pros but please don’t send me any. I remember a few years ago, everyone in the family of 7 died of botulism except the 2 week old baby who was too young to eat big people food. No way is that risk worth it.
For cloristridium botulinum, acid OR very high temperatures are the fix. This bacterium can survive nicely in sugar. This is why ancient methods of lacto-fermentation (pickling) are relatively safe. C-bot cannot survive below 4.6 ph.
[...] For those who’ve been asking, Food in Jars explained why we (sadly) can’t can pumpkin butter. [...]
Glad that I did the right thing by accident…I froze mine, but I did it because I’m not confident in my canning.
Apple-pumpkin butter sounds divine!
I admit that I am awfully new to canning, but it strikes me that with the addition of apples and a healthy dose of lemon juice you could counterbalance the low acidity without too much of a problem.
However, because of the density issue I would only can it in the Ball Elite 8oz jar (or something similar in design). The fact that it is so wide and flat would make it a lot easier for heat to permeate through the entire jar of apple-pumpkin butter. And hopefully, the addition of the apples would also make the butter less dense thus making it less of an issue anyway.
“it strikes me that with the addition of apples and a healthy dose of lemon juice you could counterbalance the low acidity without too much of a problem.”
You’re right. Just be sure you achieve a pH of 4.6 or lower.
I keep seeing recipes for pumpkins/squash butter that call for orange or apple and lemon juice. Seems like this would add the acidity required? I was going to make some butternut squash butter for gifts but I think I”ll do a bit more sleuthing before I embark upon that project. Till then I’m on to a pear-vanilla butter, photos and story should be up soon on http://www.storiesformysister.wordpress.com !
So I was looking at Pumpkin Butter jars (8 and 16 oz) in a store and saw that most listed citric acid as an ingredient. Anyone using this as an acidifier in their home canning?? I have some on hand (from wine making) but clueless as to how much to use. Has anyone sent butter samples to lab for testing?? Anybody using a pH meter at home to test their butter recipes??
Well poopie! I guess I will stick to storing some of my butter in the freezer and giving the rest away to be used right away.
A positive note is that I guess it makes all the more enjoyable to eat when it’s purely seasonal………. Something to look forward to every year.
My Grandmother always told me when making apple butter or even pumpkin butter … I must always use vinegar in the recipe. This is for safety reasons … Plus you never taste it … Once the final product is finished. It has always worked for our family. Note: She also never canned pumpkin butter … It was always frozen or placed in the frig. My grandmother was in her nineties and never knew anything about the above USDA recommendations. She was from the old school and this is how she taught me when I was just a little girl.
I’ll just use my pre-1989 Blue Ball canning book and can the way my mom, grandmother, and great-grandmother did in 1988 (and yes, they were all alive and canning in 1988). I grew up with canned meat and vegetables, all from a water bath canner, that the government says is unsafe since 1989.
Wondering if something like this might be safe: http://www.food.com/recipe/apple-pumpkin-butter-387950
I have 2 sugar pumpkins on my counter that I was going to make into butter w/recipe from: Canning by Sue & Bill Deeming, HPBooks, 1983. My kids are going to be MAD if I don’t find a good substitute or convince them frozen is just as good.
The only way to definitely determine whether that recipe is safe or not would be to test the pH of the finished product. There are instructions as to how to do that in Stephen Palmer Dowdney’s two books, Putting Up and Putting Up More.
I was wondering if you can boiling water process the SMALLEST jars, since it would surely get up to a high enough temp? Is that a silly question? I hope not, as I’ve really been noodling on how to can the pumpkin butter. I used to do it years ago, and want to follow the new guidelines but am not sure if there are any ways around it….
Is freezing it the only option now, regardless of size jar?
I read the ingredients on Williams-Sonoma’s pumpkin butter and it contains lemon juice not apple juice. Would this make it acidic enough to be safe to make at home?
Nope. Chances are that Williams Sonoma processes their pumpkin butter under more heat and pressure than can be achieved in a home kitchen. Your pumpkin butter would have to be at least 1/4 lemon juice to be safe (and that is just an educated guess. Don’t quote me on it). That much acid would totally negate the flavor of the pumpkin.
Any ideas on how long the Pumpkin butter will stay safe if I do put it in small jars? All my experience with cooking has proven that if it’s delicious, it will be tasted and eaten and gone within 3-5 days. SOOO if I want to give it out to friends and family, how long can they keep it in a refrigerator before they “die” of contamination? Two weeks? A month? Can I put it in a jar at all or does adding it to a container that’s not for freezing immediately lend it to botulism?
I really just want it to be safe for a few weeks on the rare chance that its not opened TODAY- any ideas on that?
It keeps safely in the refrigerator for several weeks. It can also be frozen for months at a time. The botulism issue only comes into play when it is sealed into an airtight environment and kept at room temperature.
I was just wondering if I could freeze pumpkin butter in canning jars or do I need to buy freezer containers also do I freeze it while it is still warm or wait until it is cold. Forgive me but I am new to canning etc.
Debra, you can freeze pumpkin butter in jars as long as you leave plenty of headspace for expansion. Wide mouth jars are better for freezing than regular mouth ones. You can put the pumpkin butter into the jars while it is still warm, but do not place them in the freezer until the butter has cooled to room temperature.
glad I stoped by to see what is up with pumpkin butters. just starting up my own jam,jelly business in Idaho,boy making that butter could of killed my business. I have a juicer and have used it to make jellys. can I combine the pumpkin juice with apple or orange and make a jam or jelly using the water bath method? if anyone knows let me know. thank you BEARPAW JAMS
I would also like to know if any one out there has tried a pumpkin jelly.
I am also into canning jellies and jams. I am glad to know about the pumpkin butter
because I was going to can some tomorrow
[...] But for other foods which are lower in acid content (like most vegetables), a boiling water bath is not enough to avoid danger. Instead, the jars must be processed for quite a bit longer in a pressure cooker, which can reach temperatures much higher than the boiling water bath, high enough to kill the botulism bacteria. But even this isn’t enough for some foods, which due to the variability of the acid content or the density of the food can’t be safely canned at home (e.g. pumpkin butter). [...]
Stonewall Kitchen sells maple pumpkin butter to the masses via the internet. Hmmm.
[...] that, I pickled up a small sugar pumpkin. I know that I go on and on here about how pumpkin isn’t safe for boiling water bath canning, but this is the one [...]
Wow, I have only been canning a few years now and only jams and butters, but I canned pumpkin butter last year from a recipe, and used a steam canner to boot! I must have made 40 pints of butter last year and gave away most of them as gifts. Looks like no more canning pumpkin butter for me from now on! Time to start doing better research.
But as far as the steam canning, I have the jars come out so hot its unreal, and the caps seal almost immediately as I take off the cover. I haven’t had a issue yet with it but after reading all of this it makes me consider the hot water bath now, although I do like how the steam canner heats up with less power waste than the hot water bath. One more question though, I am looking to purchase a steam juicer and would like some input on that item if possible as well. Thanks for all the info here, glad I stumbled upon it
I am also researching how to make pumpkin butter that is safe for public sale. I was advised today that I must get the pH level below 4.0 in order for it to be acceptable. I’m also going to try the apple-pumpkin butter recipe that uses apple cider, brown sugar, and applesauce. I have a pH tester and will post the resulting pH level once I get a test batch made.
Joyce, what was the results of your experiment?
Thank you for this. I was just about to turn over 60 pounds of pumpkins into butter with the hopes of selling it at our Farmer’s Market. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Do you know how long you can store the butter frozen?
Ms. Glaze, pumpkin butter holds well in the freezer for at least 6-9 months.